Ingredients: Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol (Moisturizer/Humectant + Solvent + Viscosity Controlling), Dipropylene Glycol (Solvent + Perfuming + Viscosity Controlling), ♦️Alcohol, PEG-32 (Moisturizer/Humectant + Solvent), Biosaccharide Gum-1, Niacinamide, Trehalose (Moisturizer), Adenosine, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Panthenol, Arginine, Hydrogenated Lecithin (Emollient + Emulsifying), Β-Glucans, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Pearl Extract, Dimethicone (Emollient), PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Emulsifying + Surfactant/Cleansing), 1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent), Carbomer (Viscosity Controlling + Emulsion Stabilising), Xanthan Gum (Viscosity Controlling + Emulsifying + Surfactant/Cleansing + Emulsion Stabilising), ♦️Mica, Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate (surfactant/cleansing), Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer (Moisturizer/Humectant + Viscosity Controlling), Titanium Dioxide, ♦️Caramel, Calcium Alginate (Viscosity Controlling), Agar (Viscosity Controlling), Gellan Gum (Viscosity Controlling), Polysorbate 20 (Emulsifying + Surfactant/Cleansing), Propylene Glycol (Moisturizer/Humectant + Solvent + Viscosity Controlling), Capryl Glycol (Moisturizer/Humectant + Emollient), Glyceryl Caprylate (Emollient + Emulsifying), Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Phenylpropanol (Perfuming, Solvent), Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, ♦️PVOH, Phenoxyethanol (Preservative), ♦️Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin (Preservative), Tetrasodium EDTA (Chelating)
*Peptides at 10050 ppm
⚛In-Depth Details Of Interesting Ingredients:
Glycerin: Widely used as a quality Hydrator (occurs naturally in the skin and its chemical structure attracts water). You can find this ingredient in most good skin-replenishing products.
Biosaccharide Gum-1: 🔴[Only information available is provided by the manufacturer: Groupe Solabia] Soothing + Moisturizing + Potentially Anti-aging (Ex-vivo test showed that it stimulated production of Sirtuin-1, a protein involved in UV damage response, oxidative stress, and wound repair,….
Niacinamide:Anti-aging (promotes collagen production and Ceramides synthesis) + Antioxidant (Against UV-induced photocarcinogenesis and photo immunosuppression) + Anti-inflammatory (reductions in the total sebaceous creation of lipids; overproduction is one of the causes of acne)
Adenosine: Anti-aging (collagen stimulation pathway) + Wound healing (collagen stimulation pathway) + Anti-inflammatory (inhibits neutrophils, white blood cells part of the inflammatory response)
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8: Works as a muscle contraction blocker, which ultimately reduces the appearance of fine line and wrinkles due to facial expression. However, it’s not an ingredient meant to be used on sensitive or sensitized (due to sun damage for example).
Panthenol: Moisturizing (penetrates deep into the layers and gets converted into Pantothenic Acid (B5)) + Anti Acne (B5) + Wound healing (B5)
Arginine: Antioxidant + Hydrating (acts as a humectant (chemical structure attracts and entraps water molecules)) + Anti-aging (increases collagen production through different pathways)
Beta-Glucans: Protects against irritation and environmental stress (the molecules link together to form a barrier on the surface of your skin) + Antibacterial (stimulate white blood cells to attack pathogens) + Hydrating (acts as a humectant (chemical structure attracts and traps water molecules)) + Anti-aging (Boosts collagen production)
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate: Prevents hyperpigmentation (Inhibits Melanin-forming activity of Tyrosinase) + Help preserve hyaluronic acid content in the skin)
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Another name for Matrixyl, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, or pal‐KTTKS): Anti-aging (Firming/Wound Healing/Moisturizing): stimulates the production of Elastin, Fibronectin, Glycosaminoglycan and collagens (specifically Types I, III and IV). A lot of data back up these claims, and several clinical trials have shown statistically significant decreases in deep wrinkle and skin roughness as well as increases in skin elasticity (results after an average of 8 weeks). It is important to note however that these results were obtained at a concentration of 3% (30000 ppm), and that most manufacturers recommend this ingredient to be used at approximately 2% (20000 ppm) concentration, and that in the this AMPLE: N product, it’s only present at 1.005% (10050 ppm (parts per million))
Pearl Extract: 🔴[Not enough research] But a couple one study on human skin points to it being a Moisturizer + Antioxidant + Anti hyperpigmentation (Prevents activation of tyrosinase). And one study conducted on a wound-healing model pointed to it helping with wound healing (Stimulate fibroblast mitosis and collagen deposition)
Titanium Dioxide: When formulated in non-sunscreen products, it’s usually used as a: colorant (whiten up the product) + UVA and UVB (eye creams are used during the day so this could be beneficial) + To protect or delay the product from photo-degradation.
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide: On its own, it doesn’t have much to show, but combined with pentapeptide-4 (present in the formula), it has been shown to enhance skin rejuvenation” when the extracellular matrix (ECM) is damaged, its repair is initiated ‘‘through processes such as protein synthesis and cell differentiation and proliferation. Most of these functions are related to signaling by peptides that are released from the ECM to cells through cell membrane receptors. Over time, aged skin is characterized by decreased production of new collagen and increased proteolytic activity, resulting in increased collagen degradation. In senescent fibroblasts, there is decreased synthesis of type I collagen, and these cells proliferate at a much slower rate when compared to fibroblasts in young skin.’’. Palmitoyl Oligopeptide and Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 have been shown to actively participate in this repair signaling process.
Glycolic Acid + Lactic Acid: All of these are forms of AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids), which are a class of acids that reduce cell adhesion in the top layer of the skin (decrease cellular bond between corneocytes) which leads to an exfoliating effect. AHAs have also been shown to increase the production of mucopolysaccharides and collagen in the skin. [Anti-Acne + Anti-Aging + Brightening + Antioxidative] *Do note that if present in very low concentration, they tend to only act as pH buffers to the formula.
♦️Controversial Ingredients:
Alcohol(Antimicrobial/Antibacterial + Solvent + Viscosity Controlling + Astringent) +Polyvinyl Alcohol(PVOH) (Viscosity Controlling) + Parfum(Perfuming): A lot of people assimilate alcohol and fragrances in skincare to dehydration and irritation. I would recommend that you watch this video: “Is Alcohol Safe in Skincare Products?” (by Liah Yoo, who worked at Korea’s largest beauty company, AmorePacific and now also has her own brand: KraveBeauty) and consult the links provided in the infobox which refer to published scientific studies and articles. The main point is: yes, alcohol and fragrance can be very stripping and irritating to the skin, but it all depends on how they are used and combined in the final formulation and of their ratio, the reactions they have with other ingredients, etc…
Caramel (Colorant): Some colorants can cause irritation to the skin (notably blue, yellow and red dyes), but this coroland is made ‘‘by controlled heat treatment of food-grade carbohydrates’’ [considered safe for use in cosmetics]
Mica (Colorant): ‘‘Earth-derived silicate minerals included in products to give them sparkle and shine as well as varying degrees of opacity.’’ [considered safe for use in cosmetics]
